Nov 5, 2008 | Fashion
Although it is already five years old and known primarily for it’s eco-chic focus, it’s only been since 2007 that
Portland Fashion Week has made the entire event earth-friendly and sustainable. From construction of the actual runway with eco-friendly materials like 100% recycled rubber balls (!), using eco-safe styling products on models, and sustainable-certified hotels for our guests, whenever possible, the city is leading by example. And unlike the $150,000 minimum to participate in New York Fashion Week, Portland keeps it low key and locally-focused, charging a much more down-to-earth $1500. As a result, up-and-coming designers can actually afford to show, infusing the usual commercial bent of most Fashion Weeks with an interesting indie element – such as
eco-champion Lizzie Parker, and
Project Runway winner Leanne Marshall of
Leanimal, who is known for her support of sustainability and eco friendliness.
Overall, the look for Spring/Summer 2009 was about drapey tops over tailored shorts and pants, dominated by black, cream, and hot pink, accented with brightly printed breezy organic cotton dresses reminiscent of nature.
Here are some of the highlights:THE COLLECTIONS:
Sameunderneath; Saffrona; Revivall; TOP: Lucia; Sofada; BOTTOM: Lizzie Parker; Idom
Standouts from this year’s collections included the breezily casual printed tees, structured shorts, and surprisingly intricate crocheted tops of Sameunderneath. Opening with a vignette starring two models (including Cloudy October, pictured at top), the line was inspired by the Cuban Revolution, and gave off a distinctly travel-themed look. Shades of cream, olive, and hot pink dominated, and at the end, founder Ryan Joseph Davis Christensen walked the runway, proudly displaying his “VOTE HOPE” t-shirt. (Sameunderneath.com)
Saffrona Classics was an entire collection fashioned from a revolutionary new blended fabric developed in Germany made from wood-pulp fibers and seaweed. Vitamin- and mineral-rich, Seacell also has a microscopic silver content, rendering it antifungal, antimicrobial, and antibacterial – none of which diminish even after repeated trips through the washing machine. This fabric not only “breathes”, but is lightweight and soft, which translated into flowing gowns and dresses. Since Seacell is only manufactured in black and white, to create other colors designer Sarabeth Chambers used everything from beets to Kool-Aid to impart her clothes with a bright pop of color. (Saffrona.com)
Like a mishmash of vintage and Dior, Rivivall Clothing mixed ecletic prints, lacework, plaid, Victorian flowers, and corsetry. The models dripped with pheasant feathers and draped gold chains, set off by the dusky denim blues and golden lace palette of the clothes. Paired with Western-style cowboy boots, the whole look lived up to its self-described “burlesque hilly-billy.” By piecing together secondhand fabrics, designer Laura Lee Laroux produced less waste in fashioning distinctive one-of-a-kind pieces. (RevivallClothing.com)
Lucia showcased fun prints and chic workwear, while Sofada by Alice Dobson featured tailored suits, funky swimwear, and printed dresses. Seattle-based Lizzie Parker showed her line of drapey dresses and fluid bamboo jersey tops, and Idom showed cute dresses made of silk and handmade cotton lace imported from the designer’s native Thailand.
STUDENT DESIGNERS & OTHER COOL STUFF:
A re-imagining of the Little Black Dress by the Art Institute of Portland produced an array of insightful and interesting student work; though not necessarily commercially viable, the pieces were nonetheless thought-provoking and chic. The particularly Balenciaga-esque silhouette (far left) was created from a puffy ski parka fabric (!), but somehow completely worked.
And finally, these Papier Couture dresses were fabulous, made completely out of paper – folded, cut, glued, sewn, molded – and insanely gorgeous, with touches like origami cranes decorating the hem. The dresses were shown on Day 1 of the shows, and then placed on display in the entrance foyer for the rest of the week. Read more about the line and designer Lia Griffith at Papier-Couture.com.
SWINGIN’ 60s HAIR & MAKEUP:
An interesting constraint on the designers was that the same models were being used in each show, so with no time for a full makeup redo between shows, the look had to coordinate with all the various collections. Lead Makeup Artist Sunny Fire chose to channel the 60s, with a black cat-eye, matte satin skin, and
a reddish-tinted lip from Fire’s eponymous line, Alima Pure, and M.A.C. (in particular, their Nourishing Lipbalm in Cranberry, and Viva Glam 1 lipstick). For one particular model who only walked in the Sameunderneath show on Day 3, Fire added a peacock feather eye to coordinate with the boho theme. All three makeup lines use recyclable containers, and Alima Pure is made from 100% certified natural minerals.
In keeping with the makeup, the hair similarly channeled the sexy 60’s. To vary the look from night to night, Lead Hairstylist Eric Alan Nelson, founder of Portland-based Sidlab, relied on Sidlab’s Pacifica Salt Water Spray for natural, beachy texture and a work-in spray called Chic which delivers flexible hold that can easily (and quickly) be restyled – all the while retaining “monster” body. The final day of the shows had a more L.A. rocker vibe, which Nelson matched with Ultra, a piecing paste which adds both shine and texture. Not only are all of Sidlanb’s products paraben- and SLS-free, but they are recyclably packagd, and manufactured using sustainable practices. (Available at Edward Wadsworth)
xo
Carly
(runway photography: ThePhotographers.us; Art Institute of Portland runway – Pete Kim)
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Oct 26, 2008 | Beauty
Hair & Makeup on the runways were both executed in the most eco-friendly manner possible. Lead Makeup Artist Sunny Fire used colors from both her eponymous makeup line and from Alima Pure; lips were awash in their Cranberry Nourishing Lipbalm or M.A.C. Viva Glam 1 Lipstick. (Cosmetics from Sunny Fire Makeup, Alima Pure, and M.A.C. all use recyclable containers, and Alima Pure makeup is made of 100% certified natural minerals.)
The looks on the runways were mostly 60’s-inspired, with a strong black cat-eye, mat
te satin skin, and a reddish-tinted lip. Since the makeup had to work for all the shows on a given night (the same models were used in each show with little time in between to redo the face), the looks had to be striking but coordinated with the variety of outfits each model wore. For one particular model who walked in only one show on Day 3, Sunny Fire added a peacock feather around one eye in order to blend with the feather jewelry and boho-theme to the Sameunderneath show.
The hair was, again, 60’s-inspired – with lead hairstylist Eric Alan Nelson, founder of Portland-based Sidlab, varying the look from night to night. To work with the models’ natural texture he used Sidlab’s Pacifica Salt Water Spray to create a loose, uncontrived look, scrunching in a natural, beachy texture. With the aid of Chic, a work-in spray, he was able to give flexible hold to the models’ 
styles and then restyle them quickly in-between shows, all the while retaining “monster body” and a “soft, sexy, feminine look.” On the final day of the shows (which had a more L.A., rocker-vibe) he used Ultra (a piecing paste), which added shine but gave the hair an edgy rocker texture. All of Sidlab’s products are paraben and SLS-free, packaged in recyclable packaging, and manufactured using sustainable practices – and are available for purchase from Edward Wadsworth online (and they’re also running a 15% off promotion for Breast Cancer Awareness Month – enter code sidlab at checkout).
(photos from left: Lead Makeup Artist Sunny Fire, Lead Hair Stylist Eric Alan Nelson, the Twiggy-style look on Day 3, a model getting her hair done with Chic styling spray, the hair and makeup look on Day 5)
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Oct 20, 2008 | Fashion
Designer Alice Dobson of Sofada drew her inspiration from the 60’s and 80’s in designing her S/S ’09 Collection. Up until now, she said, she mostly had produced 40’s-style pieces, but this season she mixed in a variety of colors -like metallics, and bold, bright pinks and reds – as well as different silhouettes to evoke a different era. The styles were retro, glamorous, and ultimately flattering – a size 2 or a size 20 would look equally fabulous in her drapey pieces. The clothes are manufactured (in-house) with significant attention paid to creating a flattering silhouette on a variety of sizes – and the designer stresses ease of wear and washability for her garments, since her customers are often young career women, travelers, and moms who need functional as well as beautiful clothes. Sofada’s pricepoints are also quite reasonable – around $160 for a dress –
and after 6 years here in Portland, the line is already sold around the country. The designer says sofada is about “being girly, glamorous, feminine…and flattering…yet being easy to wear and easy to wash. [It’s about being] able to look sexy and glamorous without it being too difficult.” Check out their website at sofada.com or drop by their new location at 2937 E Burnside
Portland, OR 97214.
-Carly J. Cais
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Oct 20, 2008 | Fashion
Designer Leanne McElroy sought her inspiration for her S/S ’09 collection from the tides and waterways of the beach. From the way water breathed in and out, she fashioned carefree, flowing pieces in an oceanic palette from 100% organic cotton, organic hempcel (hemp and tencel), soy, and modal (beechwood fiber). The Vancouver-based line reaches the 25-40-year old professional who cares for the environment but retains an urban mindset when it comes to her clothes. The line is more about being “classic and timeless,” the designer says. “We want people who buy our clothes to feel good about what they’re doing for the environment and for themselves.” She showcased tans and browns on loosely-structured shapes, with deep aquas, surprising cutouts, pleating, and ribbon details. Check out the photos below and read more about Elroy Apparel here.
-Carly J. Cais
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Oct 20, 2008 | Fashion
Designer Modi Soondaratok’s inspiration came from lace; the history of lace and the femininity of it; the structure of lace itself, and the dedication of the many generations of women who wove it in her native village in Thailand. Utilizing mostly hand-woven cottons and silks from Thailand, she both supports the villagers there and supports cottage inductry here in the U.S. by only employing home-based sewers to create the line. Using pleating, tiers, draping, and tying to construct her sophisticated pieces, she appeals to the fashion-forward, well-traveled, modern woman, who likes to purchase clothing that has a story behind it. She believes that the world is a global community and that we have to create a more in-depth perception of where things come from, which she aims to elaborate through her clothing. Visit the website at IdomDesigns.com, or visit the Portland-based boutique at 1600 NE Alberta Street, Portland Oregon 97211.
-Carly J. Cais
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Sameunderneath; Saffrona; Revivall; TOP: Lucia; Sofada; BOTTOM: Lizzie Parker; Idom
