Aug 15, 2009 | Fashion
(all runway images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week)
Designer Lela Rose drew inspiration for the Fall/Winter ’09 Collection of her eponymous line from the rich, jewel-like colors of the rainforest. A self-proclaimed “big fan of color,” the designer swathed her models in deep emerald greens, brilliant purples and turquoises, shimmering golds, and vibrant crimsons. Wanting to evoke the enchanted forest and all its magical charms, she felt that “this season has both evolved [from last season ]but is new: new shapes, new colors…but the big feature is its really amazing color. “This season is about the jewel- tones that come from the rainforest; we’ve cocoon-wrapped shapes…it’s got a little bit of an enchanted quality but at the same time we know who our customer is and we want to offer her that.” The ombre sequined dresses and tops in shades of turquoise and mustard; the pleated satin cocktail dress in a fascinating crimson; the cobalt redux tweed puff-sleeve jacket; the vertically-dyed splashes of apple green and moss on dresses and skirts; the folded open-collared dress and Grecian-draped evening gowns in gold and white; even the chunky gemstone and bronze bell jewelry evoked a dreamy opulence that was undeniably wearable.
(Clockwise, from far left: Exeter [round-toe pump with black suede straps, in salt-and-pepper Tweed with black suede trim; also avail. in Olive and Smokey Purple]; Mallory [round-toe, stacked-heel bootie with short cuff detail and cut-out tassel vamp in Cobalt Suede; also avail. in Olive Suede, Mallard Green Boucle, and Charcoal Suede]; Everett [round-toe pump with stacked heel in Multi-Color Tweed; also avail. in a black-and-white Geometric Pattern and a Mallard Green Boucle]; and Gilsan [suede strappy cut-out detail pump with tassel-tie in Black; also avail. in Charcoal, Olive, Berry, and Cobalt].
The nine styles of shoes appearing on the runway consisted of Lela Rose’s 9th exclusive line for Payless. Featuring Rose’s signature use of rich fabrics like multi-color tweeds as well as “knot-less” bow accents designed to look like insect wings, the architectural heels appeared in a kaleidoscope of colors that included a punchy magenta and bold chartreuse (reminiscent of a butterfly’s wings or the petals of a wildflower). The designer’s signature use of layering and mixing various textures was employed as a play on the idea of an insect’s exoskeleton. “Working with the team at Payless is always a joy,” Rose said. “They understand what I offer aesthetically as a designer and do a great job of turning my vision into reality. The Lela Rose customer is feminine, but always looking for something special and a bit unexpected – thanks to Payless’ great prices, I am able to reach a much broader audience.” Arriving at Payless stores in September of this year, the average pricepoint for a pair is below $45. For more information visit www.paylessontherunway.com.
Celebrity makeup artist Tina Turnbow for Beauty.com used Stila Cosmetics to create an update on the smoky eye; instead of using blacks or grays, she perfected a smudgy jade color. Using the ChaCha and Mystic (a shimmering teal blue) Stila Eye Shadow Pan colors, Kajal Eyeliners in Emerald and Pearl ($18), and Stila Smudge Pot Liner in Jade Shimmer ($20), she created a multi-dimensional emerald-ringed eye, perfect for Fall 2009. The face was smoothed with Sheer Color Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15 ($34), Perfecting Concealer B ($23), and then dusted over with Sheer Pressed Powder ($28). Convertible Color cream to powder blush in New Camellia ($25) grazed the cheeks, Praline Lip Glaze ($22) glossed the lips, and as a final touch, pink and beige shimmer shadows was brushed over the brows and high cheekbones.
Nonie Crème from butter LONDON created a catwalk wet look for the nails by starting with a coat of butter LONDON’s Swinger 3 Free Nail Polish ($14) (a pale, sheer, ‘antique’ gold), and then adding a coat of white pearl over the top to create a light, shimmery nail in an opalescent hue.
Celebrity hair artist Ted Gibson utilized the rainforest inspiration to create a “a sophisticated, insect-like shape” for the hair. He took the chic-ness of the classic ponytail, and made it current by backcombing the entire front part of the head, putting in a center part, and pulling it all back into a ponytail. The focus on the runway became the bump at the top of the head – creating a beetle-like silhouette when viewed from the front. The artist used Build It blow-drying spray ($28) to first create the texture and the voluminous shape. He finished off with
href=”http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=158753&catid=13004&trx=PLST-0-CAT&trxp1=13004&trxp2=158753&trxp3=1&trxp4=0&btrx=BUY-PLST-0-CAT&cmbProdBrandFilter=46300″ target=”_blank”> Beautiful Hold Hair Spray ($28), and Tame It shine lotion ($31) to calm frizzies and to give further texture.
Overall, the synchronism of the hair, makeup, nails, and clothing evoked an enchanted femininity despite its insectoid references; the shimmering, brilliant colors, rich fabrics, and classic styling will likely fare well in the season to come.
-Carly J. Cais
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Aug 7, 2009 | Fashion
Tia Cibani’s Ports 1961 Fall 2009 presentation took guests on an exotic journey to India, set during Mughal Dynasty. The Red Baratt Festival! Dhol ‘n’ brass band performed music derived from traditional Punjabi Bhangra, to which the models strutted, swathed in rich gold, saffron orange, henna red, ruby, begonia pink, sandy beige, moonstone gray, and jasmine white. Long and layered, short and lame – the collection represented the vibrancy of India’s past enhanced by the regal textures of tapestry tweeds, jacquards, brocades, filmy silks, and intricate lace. Offering both her version of the traditional Indian sari and more Western-inspired structured coats, the designer produced some fabulous pieces in her attention to detail: the jeweled collar of a ruffle-hem cropped jacket, for example; the ruby piping between the fingers on the above-elbow tan leather gloves; the gilt buttons down the front of an asymmetrical-closure stewardess dress; soft ballerina-style slippers in muted shades; a black on black seamed Nigella damask dress. Though many garments seemed to be loose-fitting at the waist, merely hinting at the feminine form, they embodied the modesty and grace of the traditional Indian woman by revealing just enough skin to be sexy. However, some of the designer’s interpretation of the Indian influence seemed to be slightly exploitative and what one would imagine “stereotypical;” the hot pink sari, the overly-gilded heavy Achkan coat; and the Angarkha jackets could have been pulled from the costume racks of any Hollywood Indian film. It was when the colors were most muted and tailoring most detailed that the pieces stood out, and even garnered some discussion and nods of approval from front row faces Olivia Palermo, Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington, and a whole bevy of Vogue-ettes. The softly loose romantic curls in the hair, the shimmery nude makeup, and the accessories styling of the models was top-notch, though, and helped smooth over the discordant notes to create a collection that, though a bit uneven from start to finish, still felt unified in elegance.
Some photos from
Style.com‘s Marcio Medeira below:
And below, my photo:
Sorry for the Japanese – I sent this crappy photo I took to my MIL to prove Anna Wintour was really there, so I subtitled it for her. Well, we all know who it is!
What do you guys think of the collection?
xoxxo
Carly
Jul 22, 2009 | Fashion
Images courtesy Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
Thursday, Feb. 19 saw Mackage’s presentation of their Fall/Winter ’09 Collection, a study in the juxtaposition of the opposing elements of light and dark, matte and shiny, and masculine and feminine. The Canadian design duo Elisa Dahan and Eran Elfassy added sleek separates and chic accessories to the only outerwear brand to show at the tents during Fashion Week. The slim-fitting, warm coats central to the line continued with their approach to “outerwear as an integral element of fashionable dressing.” Those familiar with Mackage noted their signature one-sided scarf collars and garment-washed leather in many pieces; wool and leather over-the-knee boot-covers, zippered gloves, and tight-fitting leather pants rounded out the looks, imbuing them with a tough chic sensibility. Of special note was a black-on-charcoal wool/cashmere double-breasted plaid coat, with a high collar and full pleated skirt, cinched by a black leather corset belt; a tan fur bomber jacket with caramel leather sleeves paired over slit cocoa skinny jeans a knee-high riding boots; and an off-white hip-length puffy parka with wool cable-knit trim, topping off white leggings and off-white leather boot covers.
Prior to the runway show the brand was also involved in sponsoring a coat drive February 13 through the 22nd in conjunction with Housing Works. New Yorkers were invited to donate coats at any of the Housing Works Thrift Shops’ seven participating locations. In an effort to increase awareness and raise money to support this initiative, celebrity fans of the line – such as Maggie Gyllenhaal, Peter Sarsgaard, and Lindsay Price – donated autographed Mackage coats to the boutiques, which were auctioned online at Shophousingworks.com from February 7-19.
For more runway photos see http://mbfashionweek.com/newyork/fall2009/designers/mackage/
-Carly J. Cais
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Jun 9, 2009 | Fashion
And What About the Winners of Project Runway from Past Seasons? (Seasons 4 & 5)
CHRISTIAN SIRANO
The tiny Salon packed to the gills; Tori Spelling causing a media stampede as she arrived and then the doors being closed to all media thereafter; our “Priority Standing” designation meaning “Standing Way at the Back Unable to See a Thing;” the Countess LuAnn de Lesseps from “The Real Housewives of New York City” in the front row– it could be none other than the Christian Siriano Fall 2009 Runway Show at New York Fashion Week – equal parts kitsch and fab.
(More after the jump…)
With strong shoulders and even stronger sleeves in a collection dominated by shiny fabrics, Christian Siriano’s designs stormed the palace in their characteristically fierce manner. Inspired by Ancient Egypt, the fabrics consisted mostly of browns, golds, and beiges, highlighted by some turquoise pieces near the end of the presentation. Though the drapey sleeves on many pieces were innovative and the skirt pleating felt current; the brown and beige color palette was unusual for a designer known for his partiality to black, white, and gray accented with punchy pops of color, and the shoe and bag collection, designed for Payless, seemed bulky and a little dated. There were two turquoise gowns near the close that were showstoppers in and of themselves – but taken as a whole the collection felt a mis-step for the young designer, and the squashy hats and gold beaded bangs on the models, well, just plain silly. But it was definitely Fashion with a capital F; and judging by the strong retail buying presence in the front row at the show, likely to be seen on the racks at upscale retail locations this coming Fall. See the full collection here.
(Runway photos, Thomas Concordia, Wire Image; Christian Siriano and Tori Spelling photo, Brian Arch, Wire Image)
LEANNE MARSHALL
The capsule collection recent Project Runway winner Leanne Marshall had toiled away on (for three weeks prior to the show, no less) consisted of nine elegantly-detailed pieces, presented in a small gallery space some 5 blocks from Bryant Park on Thursday night. Though she had originally aimed to present twelve, due to time constraints she “decided that it would be far worse to show quantity over quality and decided to cut some.” (As written on her blog, petalsandwaves.blogspot.com.) Despite the short amount of time in which she produced the pieces, the collection, inspired by her recent move to New York from Portland, Oregon, looked reasonably polished and presentable (though upon closer inspection a few crooked seams and bulky junctures detracted from the beauty of the pieces). Taking inspiration from the angular and detailed skyline of New York City, she grounded her pieces in dark neutrals, purple, and gold. Of particular note was a one-shouldered drapey black gown with sweetheart bust, a luxurious dove grey princess-hemmed swing coat with extra pleating at the closure, and a jagged skirt made of dozens of vertical tiers in different shades of purple. The dresses especially felt fashion-forward and unique, hardly the same-old, same-old that dominated many runway shows at the tents this season. Perhaps with more time and better fabric choices (and better styling – we won’t mention the hideous bedhead and distracting shiny skin of the models) she will be able to hit one out of the park on par with her final Project Runway collection. See the full collection here.
(all photos Carly J. Cais for FashionTribes.com)
-Carly J. Cais
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May 25, 2009 | Fashion, Media
(Shoes photos, Matthew Peyton, Getty Images North America; runway photos, Marcio Madeira, Style.com)
It’s been awhile since Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in NYC has drawn to a close (Feb 13-20, 2009, to be exact) but with Fall already on the way we wanted to pass on the tips and trends we saw only a few months ago.
Drawing inspiration from the group of French dandies called Les Incroyables that formed in the 18th Century following the French Revolution, designer Laura Poretzky showcased a tightly edited, elegantly cohesive Collection. Just as the group of gentlemen focused on tailored, regal pieces evoking a more opulent time, the designer put efforts into shape and fit; creating a sumptuous collection of versatile separates. The palette was sophisticated and muted in vintage-like “tarnished” hues: washed tones of black and gunmetal gray, sterling blue, colonial blue, dove gray, regal purple, and dusty rose. With exquisite tailoring and a focus on the beauty of fabric and texture, this collection stood out as the designer seemed to truly be hitting her stride. And to add the crowning touch: beautiful, drool-worthy shoes (the Antoine, Rousseau, and Dauphin) in velveteen and suede, from the Abaeté for Payless Collection due to be out in stores in August of 2009.
Elegant coats with sewn-in vests, nipped-in jackets with tails, layered silken ascots, slim-cut twill pants, wide swing skirts, tiered layering and petals, and regal striped wool separates evoked a time period of genteel joie de vivre. Jackets were constructed with sewn-in vests in order to function as a double-layered piece in the working woman’s wardrobe. Deep sterling blue silk dresses were shot through with silver lurex threads: the pieces literally looked as if the night sky was walking down the runways. Black and cream, gunmetal gray, and deep blues spoke of romance and longing – and all ensembles were accented by the most intricately beautiful accessories fashioned by jewelry designer Thea Grant: filigree gold brooches, multi-chain gold belts, and tiny pin accents that elevated the look to an entirely new regal level.
The hair and makeup was utterly gorgeous – and stayed true to the Victorian French masculine aesthetic. Beauty.com celebrity makeup artist Tina Turnbow (Tarte Cosmetics), said that the healthy “no makeup” look she did on the models is easy to recreate by first prepping the skin with Caudalie Beauty Elixir ($15), enhanced with grape, rose, and myrrh extracts to brighten the complexion. She then applied Tarte Smooth Operator foundation ($35), which gave a little more coverage than the average tinted moisturizer, to let the models’ skin shine through. She used a little bit of Tarte Lash Hugger Eco-Friendly Natural Mascara ($18) on the eyelashes, and Liquid Sunshine Vitamin-Infused LipGloss on the lips to give a natural rosy gold tone ($21). Finally she applied a dusting of powder over the eyebrows to tone them down and make the look more masculine to emulate the Les Incroyables inspiration. All in all it created a healthy, refreshing look for Fall, pairing with the dark tones of the Collection nicely.
See a behind-the-scenes video footage of the look at http://video.beauty.com/p/107/revolutionary-beauty/
(Les incroyables watercolor by G. Galat, from RubyLane.com; all other photos, Carly J. Cais for FashionTribes.com)
Lead hair stylist Mario Ruiz created super-coiffed pompadours and “basically made [the models] look like 18th-century French rock stars.” He first teased the top of the hair and shaped it into a faux-mohawk rockabilly-type look, and then pulled it back into a reverse French braid in the back, weaving a black ribbon throughout. RedKen WorkForce 9 Flexible Volumizing Spray ($14) was a must for achieving the necessary texture and holding the hair style; and one of its great features is that it won’t flake and you can brush and restyle the hair as needed and it will still hold.
All in all, it was a sumptuous, opulent collection, with fantastic separates, jewelry, and insanely affordable shoes; exquisite styling choices, and a makeup look that was just as doable in the “real world”…it flowed together seamlessly, and felt like one of those rare Collections where every element hit the right note. Bravo!
-Carly J. Cais, as posted on FashionTribes.com
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