Viktor & Rolf S/S 2010: Frills and Lace and Roisin Murphy

Viktor & Rolf is one of my favorite big-name designers; with each successive collection they always push the envelope; their clothes border on the theatrical, the jaw-dropping…but always feature amazing details that separate them from the pack.

They say: “We are attracted and inspired by what we call mega-women: strong women who follow their own path and are uncompromisingly themselves.
“[Irish singer-songwriter] Roisin Murphy is a source of inspiration for us. We share with her the need for theatricality and performance in our work. Roisin personifies a power of transformation. On-stage she easily morphs into a beautifully fierce character, while off-stage she is the counterpart of her theatrical self: soft-spoken, modest, even quiet.

“Apart from the innovative and terrific music she makes, she has a unique sense of style that is fearless and uncompromising. She wears theatrical pieces with the ease of a t-shirt, making them her own. It is an honour for us that Roisin will be performing live at our show!“For us, fashion is more than the trend of the season. A fashion show is a way to communicate with a bigger audience, not just the inner fashion circle. Music plays a powerful part in this communication as does the internet. To exemplify this, our show, including Roisin’s performance, will be available on our website the very same evening”.

Roisin says: “I am a huge fan of Viktor & Rolf, their designs encapsulate futuristic techniques and wry surrealism, the clothes are literally a thrill to wear. I have been known to go to some extremes in my fashion choices but the Viktor & Rolf dress that I wore for my ‘Overpowered’ promotion had it’s own sound and lighting rig incorporated which tops them all.

“I find levels of story and concept in their work and have road tested many of their designs on stage. For my performances I am looking for clothing to amplify the often conflicting emotions in my own work. I want nothing to box me in as a performer , any notions of “chic” must be counterbalanced with humour and wit, intelligence comes with fearlessness and joy comes with the memory of pain. Being human is a complex business and that is exactly what I wish to reflect, even in the way I dress. These ideas are timeless and so are Viktor & Rolf”.

At the moment of the show, Roisin is highly pregnant, which gives an extra symbolic layer to her performance. It expresses a feeling of hope and positivity for the future, starting right now and with the Spring/Summer 2010 Collection.

Viktor & Rolf have posted the live performance to their website- viewable below.

Visit Viktor & Rolf’s website to see the show again. & 

Visit Style.com to see the slideshow of the looks.

Visit Roisin Murphy’s website and make mashups of her Brussels live performance here.

-Carly J. Cais
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Christopher Kane S/S 2010 – A Whole Lotta Gingham

Being not really one of gingham’s biggest fans, I can safely safe I’m not falling all over myself about this collection. Now, don’t get me wrong – I love Christopher Kane, and his scallop-edged dresses and gorilla-print dress (that I’m currently working on a DIY for!) from previous seasons were gorgeous and to die for. (DIY for?)

But gingham’s a difficult print to work with, especially with such a large-scale check print, and the leg slits don’t lend any sophistication to the pieces. I applaud his use of an unconventional fabric and his inclusion of his signature mesh paneling in the dresses – it’s nice to see consistency from collection to collection. But gingham is an unconventional fabric simply because of how it conjures up images from “down home on the farm” and it’s difficult to make it look sophisticated and chic, though CK definitely tried his best with these dresses. They just look overworked – too much detail, too much piping, flowers that were probably beautiful close-up but in the photos look like a collection of worms, slits too high and too revealing- all of which doesn’t downplay the cheesiness of the tablecloth-like print.

See more after the jump…

What do all of you think?

Photos: Marcio Madeira, Style.com

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Dolce & Gabbana “Pre-Show Diaries” Show Series Starts Today!

Now on www.swide.com and on Dolce & Gabbana’s Youtube channel is Dolce & Gabbana’s
first exclusive “Pre-Show Diary.”

The first clip is approximately one minute in length and acts as a teaser to the project. Watch it below!

The Pre-Show Diaries showcase the designers at work prior to the forthcoming Dolce & Gabbana Womenswear Spring/Summer 2010 show (to be held at their Milan design studio). Offering glimpses of the collection before it makes its catwalk debut, insights into its inspirations, moods, concepts, fabrics, accessories, shapes, and detailing – this is a must-watch teaser for anyone interested in the work put into creating a RTW collection. (I love the random nature the designer uses to chop, chop, chop that mesh – and then his studied hands pinning it to the mannequin.)

From Friday Sept 23rd an additional two videos per day will be added until the show itself on Sunday Sept 28th, available on the swide.com ­ Youtube channel.

-Carly J. Cais

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Avril Lavigne’s First Runway Show for Abbey Dawn = Hot Topic Ripoffs??

From the PR peeps:
Rocker Avril Lavigne officially joined the ranks of iconic New York Fashion Week designers following the presentation of her Abbey Dawn, by Avril Lavigne Fall/Holiday 2009 Collection, available exclusively at Kohl’s yesterday [Carly says sorry guys, there’s nothing up on the Kohl’s site yet], with a high-energy runway fashion show. Serving as an alternative destination for New York Fashion Week, this is STYLE360’s 6th annual series of fashion and society events. STYLE360 is a production of A-List Communications. Nicky Hilton, Tommy Hilfiger came out to support, among others….



I’m not sure about you guys, but to me this pretty much looks like stuff you can buy at Hot Topic, or Alloy, or Delia’s… It doesn’t look fresh; it looks dated (though it does look like something Avril would wear, I have to say). Updates could have been done in the styling but the few ensembles look very run-of-the-mill, punky, 90’s straight-up mall clothes. Now I know Avril was not aiming for high-fashion couture, but….it’s just….seen it, done it. But they’ll definitely sell.

What do all of you think?
(And I’m sure this will be the last time the Abbey Dawn PR people send me anything.;-)

Nicky Hilton’s expression is priceless.

And sorry about the watermark in the middle of the photos…me poor, cannot afford hi-res, no watermark image membership on WireImage…:-(

Photos by Steven A. Henry, WireImage.com

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New York Fashion Week: Yigal Azrouel Fall 2009

[note: This was an article I wrote that was intended to post on FashionTribes.com sometime after New York Fashion Week. For unknown reasons, it never did. I felt really bad about that, and so wanted to post it on my blog to at least showcase the designer and his work, and publish the article, since I did spend some time on it. However, the information regarding the Ebay sale is now old news – so sorry to bore you guys!]

A name soon to be (if not already) on the lips of every fashionista in the know, Yigal Azrouël, chosen as Mercedes-Benz USA’s “Mercedes-Benz Presents” designer for Fall 2009, has a lot on his plate these days. Each Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, a designer who demonstrates unparalleled talent, pace-setting style and the highest quality craftsmanship is chosen to receive this honor (past recipients include Badgley Mischka, Peter Som, and Chado Ralph Rucci). Mercedes-Benz supports and celebrates the chosen designer throughout the week through the sponsorship of their runway space, access to the VIP Star Lounge for hosting media receptions, and a charitable donation to a design educational program/school on behalf of the designer and the Mercedes-Benz Presents Designer program. Yigal Azrouel was selected this year for his fresh, modern designs, meticulous attention to detail, and appreciation of exquisite fabrics.
Besides the commitments of being sponsored this season, the designer also had not one but two shows to put on: the Menswear and the Women’s RTW Fall 2009 Collections shown at the tents.

He used a darkly romantic inspiration for the Womens’ collection, interspersing his trademark drapey dresses with leather pieces such as skinny pants and a studded jacket. Azrouel, best-known as a self-taught draping expert, said “Sometimes I don’t really know what I’m doing, but it comes out when I start draping. I’m a draping designer.” His designs have been worn by celebrities including Natalie Portman, Anne Hathaway and Jessica Alba. In addition to the shows, he also has two New York City brick-and-mortar boutiques: one in the Meatpacking District, and a second store that opened in Watermill in 2008.

If that weren’t enough on his dance card, the young designer also has entered into a partnership with eBay, where he plans to offer pieces from his Spring/Summer 2009 Collection for sale on the site this summer. Proceeds will be donated to the Natural Resources Defense Council, an organization that works to protect both wildlife and their habitats, ensuring a healthy environment for all life on earth. The charity sale (not standard eBay auction!), launching June 4 on eBay.com will offer all items at fixed, below-retail-prices. The drapey, feminine designs of his eponymous line will finally be available to women around the world who may not have had access to them previously.

Ultimately, both the pieces in the upcoming sale and those in the designer’s current collection display a fluidity and femininity, combined with an ease of wear and a chicness that elevates them beyond that same-old, same-old we tend to see so much nowadays. If you are in the New York area don’t hesitate to stop by one of the boutiques and try something on…you’re guaranteed to find something flattering and stylish…and if you don’t happen to live in New York there’s always the eBay sale starting June 4.

Designer Yigal Azrouel and some random girl hogging the photo op. The bag I made for Fashion Week also made the shot, apparently. Isn’t the Y.A. adorable?? 

 

 

Learn more about the designer and the collection at http://www.yigal-azrouel.com/
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