NY Fashion Week: Academy of Art Fall 2009 Runway Show Coverage
Friday the 13th of February saw the Academy of Art University present 6 outstanding student collections at the Bryant Park tents. “This season it’s all about collaborations: we want to prepare these young designers to go into the industry,” said Ian MacKintosh, Academy of Arts University In-House Public Relations. [Once in the industry] “they’re not going to be working by themselves; they’re not an island, they are working as a team in a design team atmosphere; they’re learning how to share ideas, morph ideas, and take ideas further.” Four of the six shows were the product of collaborative efforts between a textile designer and a fashion designer, where the concept for the clothing was devised between the two, and the textile designer then created the fabrics the fashion designer used to construct the garments. With such a melding of upcoming raw talent, the variety and innovation of the looks was both astounding and inspiring.
Heather Howard and Cat Janky showcased a collection (pictured above) in a muted palette of grays, navies, pale denim blues, browns, and beiges; utilizing about 20% eco-friendly fabrics, and referencing a historical early 1900’s-silhouette with exaggerated lengths, longer waists, and mini collars. Textile designer Janky overdyed many of the fabrics and then printed them using silkscreening, pigment discharge and burnout techniques. Sketches of historical faces, ghostly pine trees, and antiqued plaid lent a vintage and aged feel.
(above, Sam Francis artwork, AllPosters.com; some looks from the runway show)
I-Shan Lou and Myoung Hee Kim created standout pieces by knitting shapes in angora wool and bonding rice-paper and chiffons printed with bold splashes of color onto them, a la Sam Francis and his abstract, splashy paintings in bright hues. Paired with black and white checkered leggings, the models exuded an 80’s feel, and the oversized knitted sweaterdresses and jackets seemed the perfect toppers for the artsy, fashion-forward gal.
Emily Melville and Ivaka Georgieva produced structured dresses with ethereal marble-like prints that could easily have found their way onto the pages of Vogue. Wool coats and dresses took on unconventional forms through unusual pleating and construction techniques; inspired by the work of landscape artist Leslie Shows the pieces were printed in sinewy grays, thin streaks of coral, and undulating beiges. The fluid colors graced hems and sides; the overall effect was ladylike and delicate.
The Britex Fabric Project showcased the work of a number of different students who used donated Britex fabrics to create paperbag-waisted pants and wool crepe dresses.
(above, Agate Beach photo from visitcalifornia.org; some looks from the runway show)
We also saw student Qianya Martin produce a collection of knitwear interspersed with sheer paneling; inspired by the tide pools and sand of Agate Beach in Bolinas, CA. She created a 60’s silhouette using sculptural knitting techniques, boning, invisible thread, and 3D shaping to fashion volumionous coats an zebra-like dresses in stripes of black and tan, with sheer fabrics in between. “I want people to have an appreciation for what’s beautiful already,” she said. “When we walk down the street, everything we see can have beauty in it, and I tend to live my life like that.”
Finally, student Scott McFarland showed a menswear collection dominated by textural, puffy sweaters with pink and gray diamond patterns woven into the yarns. Art Deco played a significant role in his inspiration for the collection, and he paired the pastel gray and cream hues with loose thermal underwear leggings and knitted accessories. Shape and 3D detailing stood out – though the color palette may have been not masculine enough (read: too fashion-forward) for some.Overall the AAU show started New York Fashion Week off on an innovative, fresh foot – and any environment that fosters such creativity and forward-thinking while remaining grounded in the realities of surviving in this business – is to be celebrated. We look forward to what these talented designers will move on to in the future.
-Carly J. Cais
All runway photos by Scott Gries, Getty Images for IMG.
As posted by me on FashionTribes.com
Cheap Chic! Carly’s Chic Steals & Fashion Deals of the Week
ShopRuche.com by carlyjcais
by Carly J. Cais, Fashion Designer & ChicSteals blog
As a designer I’ve developed an eye for style over the years, and an appreciation for the fact that sometimes, designer pricetags can be downright scary. While life necessitates a splurge once in a while on that can’t-live-without-it fabulous item, much of the fun of fashion is mixing high with low to create outfits that are creative, and also budget-friendly. Each week, I showcase five hot designer-style steals (each for $100 or, in most cases, for much, much less)…along with one must-splurge item.
Finding must-haves that are both affordable and chic can be quite the challenge: often the selections are limited, the workmanship shoddy, the clothing is cut too small/’Tween/bootilicious for real women. For classy threads that don’t cost an arm and a leg, here are some savvy shopping sites that are comprehensive, trustworthy, and off the beaten path…enough so that you won’t see your affordable treasure walking down the street on someone else with a similar nose for fashion finds:
by Carly J. Cais, Fashion Designer & ChicSteals blog
As a designer I’ve developed an eye for style over the years, and an appreciation for the fact that sometimes, designer pricetags can be downright scary. While life necessitates a splurge once in a while on that can’t-live-without-it fabulous item, much of the fun of fashion is mixing high with low to create outfits that are creative, and also budget-friendly. Each week, I showcase five hot designer-style steals (each for $100 or, in most cases, for much, much less)…along with one must-splurge item.
Finding must-haves that are both affordable and chic can be quite the challenge: often the selections are limited, the workmanship shoddy, the clothing is cut too small/’Tween/bootilicious for real women. For classy threads that don’t cost an arm and a leg, here are some savvy shopping sites that are comprehensive, trustworthy, and off the beaten path…enough so that you won’t see your affordable treasure walking down the street on someone else with a similar nose for fashion finds:
SHOPRUCHE.com Nostalgic in feel but user-friendly, Ruche is a modern boutique with a vintage touch that offers a variety of handpicked girly pieces – tops, denim, bottoms, outerwear, shoes, bags, accessories, and jewelry (some of which are organic & vegan) – that look like they might have been unearthed in a quirky vintage store. Like their excellent customer service, their prices hearken back to better days: nothing is priced over $50, including outerwear, and with $7 flat shipping, it’s hard to resist…so don’t! Can’t-miss pieces include Swaying Bird Hoop Earrings (pictured) with tiny wire-wrapped beige pearls and peach beads surrounding a swiveling gold bird charm ($13), and the Roses Are Red Mod Dress ($37) with pleated front and gorgeous rose-pattern (wear over a dark turtleneck, add black tights and black maryjanes for a winter-fabulous outift). To save 10% on your entire purchase, at checkout enter CHICSTEALS – ShopRuche.com.
SHOPKNOWLABEL.com “True style and beauty cannot be bound by rules and labels,” explain the fashionistas at Know.Label., which is filled with such a well-edited range of labels, we have agree. Styles include tops, dresses, bottoms, denim, belts, outerwear, jewelry, and bags from artists and designers all over the world. Prices similarly run the gamut, with most dresses at around $50 or under, and many coats under $200. We’re obsessed with the Paulette Trench Coat in Khaki, ($96) (because we’re suckers for the voluminous drawstring collar, deep pleated pockets, and silky beige finish), and the Wide Leg Sailor Jeans ($42) with crisp front pintucking and dark rinse, and looks killer paired with some sky-high basketweave wedges and an oversized rib-knit cardi – ShopKnowLabel.com.
GOLDENSTATECLOTHING.com For California cool, Golden State Clothing features a Cali-friendly selection of boho, office chic, and everything else needed to rock Left Coast Casual-Sophisticate. Outerwear, tops, bottoms, sweaters, and dresses are priced between $30-$120, with a variety of budget-friendly pieces to choose from. Additionally, the company is committed to utilizing sustainable materials, ethical manufacturing, social responsibility, and energy neutrality. Pieces from in the Charity Items section donate 100% of the price to Algalita, Earth911, Tree People and other environmentally-responsible charities. Recommended: Cavalry Vest ($50) is fabu military-chic with its bronze buttons and cropped length, and Cable Mini Sweater Dress ($60, pictured) with the open shoulder and buckle detail goes wonderfully paired with a long layered necklace and slouchy boots. To get 10% off your order, be sure to sign up for their email list – GoldenStateClothing.com.
EDGEofURGE.com What began as a brick-and-mortar store in North Carolina has since developed into an online mainstay of indie designers – both established and up-and-coming. Edge of Urge has both men’s and women’s clothing, as well as shoes, accessories, housewares, and stationary – all with a non-box-store, homespun feel. Prices range from around $20 for a tee, to $250 for the most detailed, unique jacket ever, while a pair of fabulous leather boots can run around $350 (but they’re oh so fine!). Handmade, limited quantity pieces are more pricey, but you’ll agree they’re worth every penny when people stop you on the street to find out what you’re wearing. Fave picks: the Dani Boot with its hidden wedge-heel that makes you 3″ taller in rustic pebble-grain leather ($164, pictured), and Biltmore Top ($66), with kitschy white bib and red buttons – perfect with a high-waisted pencil skirt for that naughty secretary in all of us – EdgeOfUrge.com.
ACCESSORYBUG.com For such affordable prices, Accessory Bug offers surprisingly stylish, expensive-looking bags, as well as lots of vegan/faux leather options. Thanks to exquisite stitching and and attention to detail (both inside and out), they easily withstand scrutiny and hold their own against pricey designer versions…a bonus for anyone craving the as-seen-on look without the cost. Our picks: the Red Alexandra Slim Short Wallet ($20, pictured) with its covered closure (carry with cream tailored pants and a striped sweater), and the Black Large Vicky Leopard Print Satchel ($46), because every woman deserves a leopard-accessorized walk on the wild side – AccessoryBug.com.
COOL FIND OF THE WEEK: SHOPPINGNOTES.com For all online shopaholics, ShoppingNotes.com is a brand-new site that keeps all your links organized. Set a price alert on whatever you are shopping for, and then copy/paste the URL of the product you want into the text box on the ShoppingNotes page; when the item’s price is lowered or it goes on sale, they let you know! You can set price alerts on almost anything that catches your eye, and every link is automatically saved with an image and description so you’ll have no problem keeping track of the hundreds (and hundreds) of must-haves on your list. Now that’s what we call cheap e-shopping savvy.
If there are any high-priced pieces you’d like me to find similar, less costly versions of, please email me at carlyjcais AT fashiontribes DOT com. ‘Til next week, fellow bargain-hunters!
– Carly J. Cais
PFW Day 5 – Elroy Apparel
Designer Leanne McElroy sought her inspiration for her S/S ’09 collection from the tides and waterways of the beach. From the way water breathed in and out, she fashioned carefree, flowing pieces in an oceanic palette from 100% organic cotton, organic hempcel (hemp and tencel), soy, and modal (beechwood fiber). The Vancouver-based line reaches the 25-40-year old professional who cares for the environment but retains an urban mindset when it comes to her clothes. The line is more about being “classic and timeless,” the designer says. “We want people who buy our clothes to feel good about what they’re doing for the environment and for themselves.” She showcased tans and browns on loosely-structured shapes, with deep aquas, surprising cutouts, pleating, and ribbon details. Check out the photos below and read more about Elroy Apparel here.
-Carly J. Cais
Leave CommentPFW Day 5 – sofada by alice dobson
Designer Alice Dobson of Sofada drew her inspiration from the 60’s and 80’s in designing her S/S ’09 Collection. Up until now, she said, she mostly had produced 40’s-style pieces, but this season she mixed in a variety of colors -like metallics, and bold, bright pinks and reds – as well as different silhouettes to evoke a different era. The styles were retro, glamorous, and ultimately flattering – a size 2 or a size 20 would look equally fabulous in her drapey pieces. The clothes are manufactured (in-house) with significant attention paid to creating a flattering silhouette on a variety of sizes – and the designer stresses ease of wear and washability for her garments, since her customers are often young career women, travelers, and moms who need functional as well as beautiful clothes. Sofada’s pricepoints are also quite reasonable – around $160 for a dress –
and after 6 years here in Portland, the line is already sold around the country. The designer says sofada is about “being girly, glamorous, feminine…and flattering…yet being easy to wear and easy to wash. [It’s about being] able to look sexy and glamorous without it being too difficult.” Check out their website at sofada.com or drop by their new location at 2937 E Burnside
Portland, OR 97214.
-Carly J. Cais
Leave CommentWho I Am
Carly J. Cais I am a DIY’er, designer, sewist, maker, and marketer. Chic Creative Life is where I share what I do, and help others bring their unique style into their own lives.
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